It's Christmas time in Belgium, and apart from the lights hanging over the streets, the odd jingle in a grocery store, and the tower in the Grand Place lit up like a red and blue icecicle, there isn't much about to warn you of the impending holiday. Though I do miss the hourly news reports on NPR telling me that I'm not spending enough to save the economy from collapse this Christmas, I do not miss Northwest winter ales. I have put most of those over-hopped crystal malt nightmares out of my mind as the Belgian holiday ales have finally begun hitting the shelves in force. These folks take holiday winter ales quite seriously, and after spending only one Autumn here, I know why. It is cold and dark and wet, and there isn't anything better to get you into the Christmas mood than a jolly glass of 9-10% alcohol beer with satirical, self-effacing, or downright embarassing labels pasted on them. They inevitably get funnier with every sip.

The most outstanding of the winter ales I've had so far is the Biere de Noel by Brasserie Caulier. It is a triple-style ale of 10% with an amazing bouquet of subtle spices that give an overall impression of egg nog. I felt myself growing jollier by the minute with that beer in my hand. I didn't want it to end and I will surely be buying some more for the holiday break.

Another winner is the Bush Noel. Though I'm sure this has a different connotation depending on whether you are in Iraq or the U.S., here everybody associates the word "Bush" first to the strongest beers made in these parts, then to our weak president. Bush Noel, in keeping with the tradition, is a toasty 12% alcohol bevvy, but you wouldn't know it for drinking it. It is so frighteningly smooth that I could drink it like swill and really end up hurting myself. This one really could kill you. It's a deep copper color and wonderfully malty and semi-dry, with a touch of mild fruit to lighten the effect.

St. Feuillen Christmas ale was a surprise considering the standard industrially-produced double and blonde didn't really do much for me. This one, however, is bottle-conditioned and strong at 9%. A soft base of rich ripe fruit hold up a bowlful of chocolate and malt that just keep tantalizing down to the final drop. I enjoyed this one with a Cuban cigar and made it last. I could have used two of these beers to keep pace with that great, languid smoke.

Another surprise has been the Florival Hiver (winter). This one is prduced for the grocery store chain in the area called Del Haize, and even has their logo on it. It is also cheap at around 3.25 for 4-12 oz bottles. At 8.5% it is no slouch, and it is obvious that some spicing has occured in this one as it yields sensations that I haven't before tasted in a beer, though subtle.

I'm sure I will have more soon, as soon as I crack a few of the special ales I've purchased for my family's arrival. Till then, I've gotta say how much i really like Hoegaarden Grand Cru. After all the hundreds of beers I've tried since arriving, this one still stands out. Amazing stuff.

Cheers.